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Saturday, November 5 2016 November 3, 2016, al-Hammeh, Umm Zuqa, Ra’s al-Ahmar By David Shulman Three vignettes from the Jordan Valley, after the first rains: 1. We race up to the top of the ridge at Umm Zuqa, turn left past the army base. Suddenly a vast slice of the Jordan Valley opens up beneath us, rows of corrugated grey sandstone, the green winding sliver of the river, the pink hills of Transjordan—surely one of the most breathtaking views in the Middle East. Not by chance, settlers have started building a new (illegal) outpost here. I, too, would be happy to live […]